Add some recent blog posts
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R. Tyler Croy
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layout: post
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title: "Keep a lab notebook"
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tags:
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- opinion
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---
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I have been "[farming](https://twitter.com/croyfamilyfarms)" for a few years
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now and as the beginning of the 2017 season in northern California approaches,
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I wanted to share some advice to consider, regardless of whether you're a
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gardener or not.
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**Always keep a lab notebook**
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For just about any hobby project I have found a lab notebook can be invaluable.
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What I consider a "lab notebook" is just a simple spiral notebook, with dated
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log entries, on what I have done, observed, etc.
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Currently I have two different hobby lab notebooks floating around, one is my
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"Farm Book" wherein I will log:
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* What has been planted in which sector
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* When I planted seeds, starters, etc
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* When seeds germinated.
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* Notable conditions. A particularly hot week, wet days, etc.
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* When plants begin to fruit, and the quantities.
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Over the seasons, I can refer back to my Farm Book and improve how, where, and
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when I plant. Perhaps more importantly however, I can refer back to the Farm
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Book after I have been "out" for a while, whether traveling or just not paying
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attention, to figure out what projects/tasks I left off with.
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For my [other hobby
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project](https://www.flickr.com/photos/agentdero/29706573822/), my lab notebook
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has been even more valuable. Not only acting as a truck-repair-log but also
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storing data on diagnostics performed at varying intervals. In the case of my
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old truck, without a running log of what experiments and diagnostics I have
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performed, repairing it would be a futile effort.
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I was first introduced to this practice by [Bluthe
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Rocher](https://twitter.com/blithe) in her talk [The Scientific Method of
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Troubleshooting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9YZXuUjyOs) in the context of
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software development and troubleshooting. Of course you can, and should, use
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something approximating a lab notebook during the course of building software.
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> **Sidenote**: Using Git commits and a `NOTES.adoc` in a repository is a great
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> way to accomplish this. Many times, on my own projects, I will commit an
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> experiment that failed with a commit message explaining what didn't work, and
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> then revert that commit.
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While it's easy to understand the value of additional rigor in software
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development, I urge you to consider keeping a lab notebook for any other hobby
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or side-project of any importance to you.
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Inevitably, you'll find yourself staring at your project on a Saturday morning
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wondering "what the hell was I doing here?"
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Keep a lab notebook, and give yourself the answer.
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---
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layout: post
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title: "Drive like a life depends on it"
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tags:
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- opinion
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---
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Somewhere along the line, safety became a crucial part of my decision-making
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process. I always wear my bike helmet. I put on my protective safety glasses
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when wielding an axe or doing something which might splinter or launch debris.
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In my tool closet I have a big bag of ear plugs which I put in whenever working
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with a power tool bigger than my cordless drill. When riding a motorcycle I
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always wear my full-face helmet, armored jacket, and sturdy gloves. And of
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course, when I am driving a car, I **always** check my blind spots.
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Somewhere along the line, I came to appreciate that: **Nobody is looking out
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for your safety but you.**
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I will often see people driving with some kind of distraction distraction,
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something which is taking their attention away from the operation of the heavy
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projectile they are steering, which could easily kill them or those around
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them.
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Distractions like, talking on their cell phone, or even worse, looking at the
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screen of their cell phone. Distractions like, allowing their 10lb dog to stand
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on their lap and look out the driver-side window. Distractions like, gawking at
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the pretty houses off to the left or right of the road. If the distractions
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alone weren't enough, all too often I will also see people driving less than a
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few seconds behind the vehicle in front of them.
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I think people drive with the best-case scenario in mind: "everything is going
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to work out, and I will arrive safely at my destination." Whereas I tend think
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about the worst-case.
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----
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When learning how to ride a motorcycle the instructor told us to ride "as if we
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were prey." A useful mindset to adopt: assuming that nobody out there notices
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you, and if push comes to shove in an accident, you will always be on the
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losing end.
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My phrasing of the advice, influenced by learning to fly an airplane, where the
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responsibility of "Pilot in Command" is drilled into the bright-eyed student
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pilot, and by being "prey" on a motorcycle on California highways is simply:
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**Nobody is looking out for your safety but you.**
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----
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Unfortunately on the public roads, with pedestrians, cyclists, motorcyclists,
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tiny cars, big trucks, and everything in between, it's much more complex. You can
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be the most prepared, well-lit, cyclist, but you're still going to lose in a
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toe-to-toe with a distracted driver.
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When somebody drives unsafely, and things go wrong, the *best-case*
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scenario is that they only injure themselves. The worst-case, and unfortunately more
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likely, scenario is that they hurt and [kill
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others](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_motor_vehicle_deaths_in_U.S._by_year).
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As a frequent walker, rider, and driver on public roads, please take your
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responsibility more seriously, and drive like lives depend on it.
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---
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layout: post
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title: "Collecting rain, an on-going experiment"
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tags:
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- croyfamilyfarms
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- rain
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---
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My neighbors must surely think that I am some kind of lunatic. Last spring I
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dug up half of the dying sod in the front yard and installed three 8x4 foot
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raised garden beds. Then, last fall, I started banging around with a few, bright blue,
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55 gallon food-grade steel drums, in the car port, which I picked up to catch
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rainfall for my [garden](https://twitter.com/croyfamilyfarms). In this post, I
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will detail my initial results using a home-brew system using these metal
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barrels.
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While Sonoma county is not in drought, and hasn't really been off target
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rainfall in recent years, the concept of catching and storing excess rainwater
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is one which appeals to my "sustainable gardener" ethos. Second to that, I
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strive to be **cheap.** Therefore, if I wanted to store water for use in the
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garden, I needed to find a way to put together a rain collection system for not
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a whole lot of money. I was able to acquire five of these blue barrels
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for _zero_ dollars, quite the steal! Some researching online leads me to believe
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that these barrels may only hold up for two to five years depending on how
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rapidly they rust as the seasons come and go. This motivates another two
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criteria for my rain-collection system: simple and easily replaceable.
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<center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/agentdero/31090151421/" title="Fully connected rain barrel assembly"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5484/31090151421_97aaa959dd_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Fully connected rain barrel assembly"></a>
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</center>
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### Hardware and Design
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The priciest component of the setup is one which I expect to last effectively
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forever, the downspout adapters. These adapters are a thick plastic which
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should survive the elements, and are designed to reduce sending sediment,
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leaves, and other garbage down into my rain barrels, helping keep the barrels
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themselves simple. The cost of the adapters also factored into the design of
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the system. Since they were the most expensive component, I aimed to use as few
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downspouts as possible, and join barrels together into barrel systems which
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could be fed by a single downspout.
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At the top of each barrel is a large threaded hole, roughly 2" in diameter,
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and a narrow 3/4" threaded hole. The 3/4" hole set the standard for sizing
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piping I used to connect everything together.
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Initially I looked at purchasing and fitting a hand-pump to the larger 2"
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threaded hole. There are many hand-pump assemblies which can be purchased but
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the cost was prohibitive, from $30-50 for lower quality plastic pumps, up to
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$200 for durable metal hand-pumps.
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I ended up drilling holes in the sidewall towards the bottom of each barrel
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large enough to insert a 3/4" threaded bushing, which a friend welded into
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place. Be careful when buying drill bits and always wear your safety glasses.
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I sheared the guide bit of one of the circular drill bits when creating the
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holes in the barrels and sent it flying across the workshop. The downside to
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working with steel drums is, as you might expect, steel is _hard_. I drilled
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the holes about 4-5" above the base of the barrel, to allow sediment to settle
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to the bottom without clogging the output valve.
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When my friend finished with the barrels, I set about connecting the different
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barrel systems using the following hardware:
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* A few 10' lengths of Sched 40 3/4" PVC pipe
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* 10 3/4" threaded-to-unthreaded PVC couplers
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* 5 threaded 3/4" plastic ball valves
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* 5 threaded 3/4" metal nipples
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* 2 unthreaded 3/4" plastic ball valves
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* 4 unthreaded 3/4" PVC plugs
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* 6 unthreaded 3/4" PVC T-fittings
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* 2 unthreaded 3/4" PVC 90° elbows
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* 2 large band clamps
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* PVC cement
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I won't dwell too much on the actual pipe fitting, since anybody with a
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measuring tape, hacksaw, and PVC pipe can measure out and connect pipes
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successfully. In my installation there are two "barrel systems," connected to
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two separate downspouts. Each barrel system is connected together through the
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welded bushings (bottom piping, egress), and through the top 3/4" threaded
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hole (top pipeline, inlet).
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The top piping allows water and air to be exchanged as the barrels fill. The
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bottom piping, which is itself independently valved for each barrel, allows
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equal filling of the barrel system and provides the spout for pouring water
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into a watering can.
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The top piping is sealed with PVC cement, except for the inlet pipe which I may
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wish to change the length of later. The bottom piping is also sealed with PVC
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cement, except for the egress pipe which I may wish to change the length of
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later as well.
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The water pressure for the system depends on the "height" of the water stored,
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so each barrel system is also raised on stacked cinder blocks. If you intend on
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raising water barrels, use cinder blocks, or cross-braced 4x4 pieces of wood
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because **water is heavy**. When considering water pressure with such a system,
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it is important to consider the _top_ height of the water, not the height of
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your spigot. When the barrels are full, the water height is about 5', but as
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the water level lowers, the pressure will drop accordingly. Since we're only
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filling watering cans, instead of attaching hoses, this isn't a concern for us.
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But if we were to attach a hose, it would be important that the hose-height
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during use remain below the top-height of the water in the barrels.
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---
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**NOTE**: My first design used brass valves, which look like a normal hose
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spigot, do **not** bother with these. They restrict the water flow, only use
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ball valves which, when turned, allow full use of the pipe diameter.
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---
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Cumulatively, once I experimented with the design, each system took no more
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than 30-45 minutes to assemble, not including curing time for the PVC cement.
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<center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/agentdero/33554958431/" title="Northerly rain barrel system"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2861/33554958431_a74a6d9e05_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Northerly rain barrel system"></a>
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</center>
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### Mistakes Made
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Of course, I made some mistakes in this experiment, many of which can be
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corrected as soon as the barrels are emptied for the season.
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* The downspout near the "south crop" receives the water from almost the entire
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backside of the roof and can fill in less than a couple hours during a steady
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rain storm. I want to add more capacity to that side of the house, which would
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likely require re-orienting the barrel system.
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* The barrels shouldn't be sitting level but should slope slightly to allow air
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to push up through the exposed 3/4" threaded hole in the top where water
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enters. Currently, two of the barrels are leveled incorrectly and air gets
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trapped as the barrels fill with water. Unfortunately this air must be manually
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allowed out, by unscrewing the plug in the larger hole, in order for those
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barrels to fill entirely.
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* The downspout chosen for the "north crop" receives an adequate amount of output
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and also rapidly fills during a steady rain. But the water requirements for the
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north crop, which receives 12+ hours of sun during the summer, will far outpace
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supply. Although I am experimenting with better water conservation techniques
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for the north crop this summer such as: rice straw covering. oolas, and
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better timing for sporadic deep waterings, I will definitely serve the north
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crop the entire summer with water from the rain barrels.
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* The lip of the barrels should be shielded from the rain with a roof of some
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form, as water can collect in the tops of the barrels and sit stagnate for
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mosquitoes or rust.
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After the 2017 season has depleted the rain barrels, I expect to spent a
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weekend inspecting, reconfiguring, and improving the system, but that will have
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to wait until all that heavy water is gone.
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### Conclusion
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The most significant conclusion that I can draw from this experiment, and the
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data I have collected, is that my wife is **incredibly** tolerant to my
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nonsense. Bright blue 55-gallon steel drums aren't the most inconspicuous
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addition to our yard, but it seems that my idiotic excitement at barrels full
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of water wins her over.
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A more practical conclusion is that this project has been worth it, for no other
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reason than making me really consider my **water budget** for the season. I
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know for a fact that I will not reach September without depleting all 275
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gallons of stored water. That's okay, the water is there to be used, but I'm
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considering how much water different plants, soil types, and plot locations
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need.
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Another conclusion to take away from the first year of this experiment is that
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**cost is king.** When I first scoped out rain barrels, some vendors in the
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area, including our local recycler, were charging $25-35 **just for one
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barrel.** I'm not aging fine wine in these barrels, I'm storing dirty water
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which rolled down off my roof. While I didn't keep detailed receipts on this
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system, I estimate that I spent less than **$100** total. Considering the cost
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of water, with this cheap of a system, I am still unlikely to break even unless
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the system is usable for 5+ years, which I doubt will happen. In spite of any
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financial incentive, the rain water is unfiltered, and also not chlorinated,
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which I expect to be better for the overall plant and soil health. Only time
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will tell however.
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Although the system is small, it's preventing 275 gallons of drinking water
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from being used for agriculture, and at the end of the day (for $100) that
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makes me feel good.
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---
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layout: post
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title: "Starting an ambitious 2017 growing season"
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tags:
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- croyfamilyfarms
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- garden
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---
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Spring has officially erupted in Sonoma county, with the immense amount of
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biological activity we have come to expect from one of the more productive
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regions of the country. On our meager parcel we have more plants, with more
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variety, than ever before going into the ground. With two seasons under our
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belts in the "south crop" and one season with the "north crop," I absolutely
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couldn't wait for the cold nights to pass, and am pleased beyond belief that
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Spring is finally upon us.
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### Plants
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There is enough variety this season that we need to break things up by plant
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type, how exciting! Generally speaking, our varieties of plants break down into
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fruits and fruiting vegetables, root plants, and herbs.
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Another experiment I'm starting this season is planting of microgreen
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rotations. Microgreens can be effectively grown in trays on a rotation, and
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require a few weeks to germinate the seeds but once the greens reach 4-5" tall,
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they're immediately cut with scissors for salads. I am omitting microgreens
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from the rest of the post because the seeds are still in the bags and I am
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still at the design stage for the trays and rotation.
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Some of plants listed aren't yet directly seeded or transplanted, but will be
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before the end of April, those have been marked with an asterisk.
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#### Fruit/Vegetables
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* Tomato: New Girl (Early Girl variety)
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* Tomato: Julia Childs (A slicer variety from Harmony Farms in Sebastopol)
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* Tomato: Roma (sauce)
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* Tomato: Principe Borghese (sauce)
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* Sugar snap peas
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* Bush beans (\*)
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* Leeks
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* Scallions
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* Corn (\*)
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* Zucchini (\*)
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* Blueberries
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* Lemons
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Tomatoes are always a big hit in the garden, as are my sugar snap peas.
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Currently both are in the ground and established. As I did last year, I started
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snap peas from seed but purchased tomato starts. Unlike last year however, I
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have two full bed-length rows of snap peas planted (8' rows), instead of one
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4' row. The tomatoes are laid out differently than last year too, with the
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shorter plants (sauce tomatoes) planted in the southern end of the bed so it's
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not shaded by taller plants during the morning transit of the sun.
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New this year are leeks, also started from seed which, currently, look like
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nothing more than little green wisps poking out of the earth. I'm still unsure
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what to expect from them.
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Also new this year will be bush beans. Unlike the sugar snap peas which require
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something to climb up, bush beans are supposed to support themselves and grow
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nice and bushy. We'll be dedicating part of one of our north crop garden beds
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to the "bush beans experiment" this season.
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#### Root Plants
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* Potato: Yukon Gem (Yellow creamer variety)
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* Potato: Desiré (Red creamer variety)
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* Radishes
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* Garlic
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* Hops: Magnum and Sterling cultivars.
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* Purple onion
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* White onion
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The potatoes are fun new experiment this season. In the "south crop" there are
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a couple beds which receive decent sunlight but haven't performed well with
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tomatoes or peppers in years past. I haven't grown potatoes before so I'm
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uncertain what to expect as far as yield is concerned.
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I'm also trying radishes again, which I have am planting in the "north crop" as
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a bed-liner to capture some additional sun and water from otherwise unused
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space. The older seeds which I used for the first two rows had a 90%+
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germination rate, so I have high hopes for some small tasty salad radishes
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around Memorial Day.
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The onions are more out of laziness than anything else, sometimes we don't eat
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onions fast enough, and they sit on the counter long enough to sprout. Whenever
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something sprouts in my kitchen, I throw it into the ground. My friend, Farmer
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Josh, grows a few rows of purple onions so I don't feel particularly motivated
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to spent precious bed space on them, when I can trade some snap peas for fresh
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onions.
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The hops continue to be more fun and decorative than anything. The root systems
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are now well established, and I continue to enjoy learning about the hop
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growing process, but it's unlikely the hop cones at the end of the season will
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find their way into any beers.
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#### Herbs
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* Thyme
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* Genovese Basil
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We do truly need more herbs but I just hate dedicating garden space to it.
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Depending on how things pan out around the garden, some parsley may find its
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way back into the mix.
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### Soil
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As I read more about organic and sustainable gardening, the more I am coming to
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appreciate soil health. To think that our entire civilization depends on
|
||||
something as simple as soil health and biodiversity is still something which
|
||||
amazes me.
|
||||
|
||||
Because I'm working in enclosed and raised garden beds, I don't worry much
|
||||
about soil erosion. Additionally, for better or worse, our area of Santa Rosa
|
||||
is covered with absolutely awful compact clay, so under my beds there isn't
|
||||
much transfer of moisture or leaching of minerals likely.
|
||||
|
||||
For most of the garden beds, soil preparation consisted of aerating and folding
|
||||
in chicken manure. This is a fairly rudimentary preparation, once fruit
|
||||
vegetables get nearer, I'm planning on doing proper soil tests for the first
|
||||
time to make sure all my tomatoes turn out nice and juicy.
|
||||
|
||||
For the garden beds which are hosting potatoes, I employed an old gardening
|
||||
technique which involves trenching the garden bed, laying down rice straw,
|
||||
placing seed potatoes over it, and then covering with a few inches of loose
|
||||
soil. The straw helps give the roots some loose space to grow into when the
|
||||
seed potatoes are just starting out. Unlike the fruit/vegetable plants, root
|
||||
vegetables need extra care taken for "hilling" during the growing period.
|
||||
Meaning we'll want to build up soil around the stem of the plant as the season
|
||||
progresses. For the potatoes, between the trenches I have a tall mount of dirt
|
||||
which I will be using to hill as the tubers start to appear on the stems.
|
||||
|
||||
Unfortunately, due to soil compaction, loss of soil during harvest, and other
|
||||
factors, the "soil reserve" which we had last season has been spent topping off
|
||||
beds. Soon we'll need to pick up another cubic yard of garden soil to ensure we
|
||||
have the necessary surplus on hand for hilling and potting plants.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### Challenges
|
||||
|
||||
Gardening wouldn't be much fun if it weren't challenging along the way. Thus
|
||||
far the largest challenge is the same as last year: managing soil moisture
|
||||
during the hot days. Our primary garden soil purposefully crusts over on the
|
||||
top to preserve moisture in the soil below. The downside of this is watering
|
||||
can be more challenging as a first-pass with water must first be done to soften
|
||||
this "crust" and then after a few minutes a deeper watering can be achieved.
|
||||
|
||||
The awful, but native, clay soil is also a persistent challenge. This year we're
|
||||
attempting to reclaim some parts of the yard with decorative flowers and some
|
||||
basil plants. It's too early to tell how well the transplants are rooting but
|
||||
I'm not very optimistic right now. The clay soil captures moisture quite well,
|
||||
but once dried it's almost indistinguishable from rock. Depending on how this
|
||||
smaller, almost entirely native soil, area performs this season, I may amend it
|
||||
next year with some sand and compost to help loosen it up.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
### The path forward
|
||||
|
||||
By the end of April, I am expecting to have seeds, transplants, or plants for
|
||||
everything in the ground. I also expect to be planning the rest of the rotation
|
||||
through the garden for late May. What I haven't successfully done in the past,
|
||||
except with corn, is rotate multiple plants through the long California growing
|
||||
season. Radishes for example, should be harvested in about a month, snap peas
|
||||
in about two and a half months. Since we started earlier this year, this means
|
||||
we should be able to get a good full second (at least!) sowing of a number of
|
||||
our plants before the end of the productive season in October.
|
||||
|
||||
With the experience of a couple years in this location, this will be the first
|
||||
year where I operate more systematically like a farm and less like an
|
||||
experimental garden, so I'm looking forward to the long days of sunshine ahead!
|
||||
Loading…
Reference in New Issue