Water the leaves if you want to yo
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layout: post
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title: "Don't get water on the leaves"
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tags:
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- opinion
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- croyfamilyfarms
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- garden
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---
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"For vegetables, your best bet is to get some drip lines 'cause you don't want
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to get water on the leaves" said the helpful employee at a local farm supply
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store. I have heard this "advice" *numerous* times over the past few years, and
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it gets a little deeper under my skin each time I hear it. Like most advice
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handed out in this fashion, there's a kernel of truth hiding somewhere behind
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layers of indirection associated with such old wive's tales.
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As I mentioned in my [last gardening related
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post](/2017/09/13/growing-tomatoes.html), I am certainly not an expert, but I'm
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also not a novice. Therefore take what I'm about to tell you as nothing more
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than a pile of supposition from lots of reading and years of experimentation.
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The nugget of fact behind "don't get water on the leaves!" comes down to, at
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it's most basic level, avoiding scenarios which might promote fungal or mildew
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growth on plant leaves. That said, **leaves are meant to get wet**, in fact,
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most leaves helpfully channel water to the root system of the plant. This past
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season, I marveled at how perfectly the ridges in the okra leaves bowed and
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dripped water directly into the root zone. However, if leaves _remain_ wet,
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that can promote the growth of crop-destroying fungi and mildews.
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The most common affliction most home-gardeners will likely recognize would be the
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ever-spiteful **powdery mildew**. Powdery mildew can spread from leaf to leaf
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and demolish an entire crop. At the end of the summer season, my friend's
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pumpkin patch has been nearly entirely obliterated by powdery mildew. The
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blight has destroyed leaves up and down the vines and even spread to some
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pumpkins in the patch. Words cannot quite describe the nauseating sight of a
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20lb pumpkin which been engulfed with the chalk-like green of the mildew.
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I can state with confidence that my friend definitely was spraying water all
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over the leaves of that pumpkin patch. I can also state with confidence that
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simply spraying "water on the leaves" was _not_ the cause of his mildew
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problem.
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Some key contributing factors to fungal and mildew growth can be:
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* **Splash-back**: spores can remain dormant in the soil for _years_, and using
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a high-pressure hose which splashes water and soil _up_ onto the plant, can
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be a big contributing factor to growth. In my experience, this usually takes
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the form of mud splashing back onto the bottom of leaves, giving the spores a
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nice hiding spot to germinate and start ruining things.
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* **Tainted soil**: if a patch, or an adjacent patch, becomes contaminated with
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spores, the next season you simply cannot plant the same plants there.
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Plantings should be rotated anyways, but if an area with squash/gourds becomes
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contaminated with any fungus, I wouldn't plant squash/gourds anywhere near it
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for at least a few years.
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* **Low-wind/stagnate air**: areas where the soil stays moist, with stagnate
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air, can also foster ideal growing conditions for mildews. Anecdotally
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speaking, I have _only_ ever seen mildew in garden plots which have
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little-to-no cross-wind. Plots whose air is especially stagnate during the hot
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summer months which have low-wind conditions. The stagnate air means the soil
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is going to dry-out slower and the air above the soil will remain more humid;
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a perfect environment for mildew.
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* **Keeping leaves wet overnight**: as the air cools, it's ability to accept
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moisture lowers. In essence, it takes much longer for water to evaporate at
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night than during the day. Generally this is why many people will water their
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plants at night, but allowing leaves to remain wet for long periods of time can
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also be risky. In west Sonoma county, due to on-shore flow, it's typically
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more humid at night which can make evaporation that much slower. The longer
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the leaves remain wet, the more vulnerable they can be to fungal growth.
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* **Specific plants**: as alluded to before, squashes/gourds (summer squash,
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zucchini, cucumber, pumpkin, and other gourds) can be particularly
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susceptible to powdery mildew. Tomatoes can also suffer from a number of
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leaf-curling blights. Depending on the conditions of your garden, some plants
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might not have what it takes to survive in a specific spot, or the location
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in general. This doesn't just come down to
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likelihood of blights, fungi, and mildews, but also pollinators, soil quality,
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wind, and sun.
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Much of gardening is simply providing an environment in which the plant you're
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growing will have it's best success. Unsurprisingly, most plants want to live.
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Your job as a gardener is to ensure the most suitable conditions for the plant
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to succeed, without enabling other naturally occurring organisms (fungus,
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mildew, weeds, etc) an opportunity to themselves succeed.
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It's not just as simple as "don't get water on the leaves!" Which, said alone,
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is such simplistic advice you might as well treat it as a pleasantry like "have
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a nice day!"
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Smile, nod, and on your way out the door respond with a hearty "you too!"
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