brokenco.de/_posts/2017-04-24-collecting-rain.md

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---
layout: post
title: "Collecting rain, an on-going experiment"
tags:
- croyfamilyfarms
- rain
---
My neighbors must surely think that I am some kind of lunatic. Last spring I
dug up half of the dying sod in the front yard and installed three 8x4 foot
raised garden beds. Then, last fall, I started banging around with a few, bright blue,
55 gallon food-grade steel drums, in the car port, which I picked up to catch
rainfall for my [garden](https://twitter.com/croyfamilyfarms). In this post, I
will detail my initial results using a home-brew system using these metal
barrels.
While Sonoma county is not in drought, and hasn't really been off target
rainfall in recent years, the concept of catching and storing excess rainwater
is one which appeals to my "sustainable gardener" ethos. Second to that, I
strive to be **cheap.** Therefore, if I wanted to store water for use in the
garden, I needed to find a way to put together a rain collection system for not
a whole lot of money. I was able to acquire five of these blue barrels
for _zero_ dollars, quite the steal! Some researching online leads me to believe
that these barrels may only hold up for two to five years depending on how
rapidly they rust as the seasons come and go. This motivates another two
criteria for my rain-collection system: simple and easily replaceable.
<center>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/agentdero/31090151421/" title="Fully connected rain barrel assembly"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5484/31090151421_97aaa959dd_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Fully connected rain barrel assembly"></a>
</center>
### Hardware and Design
The priciest component of the setup is one which I expect to last effectively
forever, the downspout adapters. These adapters are a thick plastic which
should survive the elements, and are designed to reduce sending sediment,
leaves, and other garbage down into my rain barrels, helping keep the barrels
themselves simple. The cost of the adapters also factored into the design of
the system. Since they were the most expensive component, I aimed to use as few
downspouts as possible, and join barrels together into barrel systems which
could be fed by a single downspout.
At the top of each barrel is a large threaded hole, roughly 2" in diameter,
and a narrow 3/4" threaded hole. The 3/4" hole set the standard for sizing
piping I used to connect everything together.
Initially I looked at purchasing and fitting a hand-pump to the larger 2"
threaded hole. There are many hand-pump assemblies which can be purchased but
the cost was prohibitive, from $30-50 for lower quality plastic pumps, up to
$200 for durable metal hand-pumps.
I ended up drilling holes in the sidewall towards the bottom of each barrel
large enough to insert a 3/4" threaded bushing, which a friend welded into
place. Be careful when buying drill bits and always wear your safety glasses.
I sheared the guide bit of one of the circular drill bits when creating the
holes in the barrels and sent it flying across the workshop. The downside to
working with steel drums is, as you might expect, steel is _hard_. I drilled
the holes about 4-5" above the base of the barrel, to allow sediment to settle
to the bottom without clogging the output valve.
When my friend finished with the barrels, I set about connecting the different
barrel systems using the following hardware:
* A few 10' lengths of Sched 40 3/4" PVC pipe
* 10 3/4" threaded-to-unthreaded PVC couplers
* 5 threaded 3/4" plastic ball valves
* 5 threaded 3/4" metal nipples
* 2 unthreaded 3/4" plastic ball valves
* 4 unthreaded 3/4" PVC plugs
* 6 unthreaded 3/4" PVC T-fittings
* 2 unthreaded 3/4" PVC 90&deg; elbows
* 2 large band clamps
* PVC cement
I won't dwell too much on the actual pipe fitting, since anybody with a
measuring tape, hacksaw, and PVC pipe can measure out and connect pipes
successfully. In my installation there are two "barrel systems," connected to
two separate downspouts. Each barrel system is connected together through the
welded bushings (bottom piping, egress), and through the top 3/4" threaded
hole (top pipeline, inlet).
The top piping allows water and air to be exchanged as the barrels fill. The
bottom piping, which is itself independently valved for each barrel, allows
equal filling of the barrel system and provides the spout for pouring water
into a watering can.
The top piping is sealed with PVC cement, except for the inlet pipe which I may
wish to change the length of later. The bottom piping is also sealed with PVC
cement, except for the egress pipe which I may wish to change the length of
later as well.
The water pressure for the system depends on the "height" of the water stored,
so each barrel system is also raised on stacked cinder blocks. If you intend on
raising water barrels, use cinder blocks, or cross-braced 4x4 pieces of wood
because **water is heavy**. When considering water pressure with such a system,
it is important to consider the _top_ height of the water, not the height of
your spigot. When the barrels are full, the water height is about 5', but as
the water level lowers, the pressure will drop accordingly. Since we're only
filling watering cans, instead of attaching hoses, this isn't a concern for us.
But if we were to attach a hose, it would be important that the hose-height
during use remain below the top-height of the water in the barrels.
---
**NOTE**: My first design used brass valves, which look like a normal hose
spigot, do **not** bother with these. They restrict the water flow, only use
ball valves which, when turned, allow full use of the pipe diameter.
---
Cumulatively, once I experimented with the design, each system took no more
than 30-45 minutes to assemble, not including curing time for the PVC cement.
<center>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/agentdero/33554958431/" title="Northerly rain barrel system"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2861/33554958431_a74a6d9e05_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Northerly rain barrel system"></a>
</center>
### Mistakes Made
Of course, I made some mistakes in this experiment, many of which can be
corrected as soon as the barrels are emptied for the season.
* The downspout near the "south crop" receives the water from almost the entire
backside of the roof and can fill in less than a couple hours during a steady
rain storm. I want to add more capacity to that side of the house, which would
likely require re-orienting the barrel system.
* The barrels shouldn't be sitting level but should slope slightly to allow air
to push up through the exposed 3/4" threaded hole in the top where water
enters. Currently, two of the barrels are leveled incorrectly and air gets
trapped as the barrels fill with water. Unfortunately this air must be manually
allowed out, by unscrewing the plug in the larger hole, in order for those
barrels to fill entirely.
* The downspout chosen for the "north crop" receives an adequate amount of output
and also rapidly fills during a steady rain. But the water requirements for the
north crop, which receives 12+ hours of sun during the summer, will far outpace
supply. Although I am experimenting with better water conservation techniques
for the north crop this summer such as: rice straw covering. oolas, and
better timing for sporadic deep waterings, I will definitely serve the north
crop the entire summer with water from the rain barrels.
* The lip of the barrels should be shielded from the rain with a roof of some
form, as water can collect in the tops of the barrels and sit stagnate for
mosquitoes or rust.
After the 2017 season has depleted the rain barrels, I expect to spent a
weekend inspecting, reconfiguring, and improving the system, but that will have
to wait until all that heavy water is gone.
### Conclusion
The most significant conclusion that I can draw from this experiment, and the
data I have collected, is that my wife is **incredibly** tolerant to my
nonsense. Bright blue 55-gallon steel drums aren't the most inconspicuous
addition to our yard, but it seems that my idiotic excitement at barrels full
of water wins her over.
A more practical conclusion is that this project has been worth it, for no other
reason than making me really consider my **water budget** for the season. I
know for a fact that I will not reach September without depleting all 275
gallons of stored water. That's okay, the water is there to be used, but I'm
considering how much water different plants, soil types, and plot locations
need.
Another conclusion to take away from the first year of this experiment is that
**cost is king.** When I first scoped out rain barrels, some vendors in the
area, including our local recycler, were charging $25-35 **just for one
barrel.** I'm not aging fine wine in these barrels, I'm storing dirty water
which rolled down off my roof. While I didn't keep detailed receipts on this
system, I estimate that I spent less than **$100** total. Considering the cost
of water, with this cheap of a system, I am still unlikely to break even unless
the system is usable for 5+ years, which I doubt will happen. In spite of any
financial incentive, the rain water is unfiltered, and also not chlorinated,
which I expect to be better for the overall plant and soil health. Only time
will tell however.
Although the system is small, it's preventing 275 gallons of drinking water
from being used for agriculture, and at the end of the day (for $100) that
makes me feel good.